Browsing by Subject "Kosmetik"

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Determination of potentially hazardous oxidation products in cosmetics containing lanolin or 1-(1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-octahydro-2,3,8,8-tetramethyl-2-naphthalenyl)ethanone (OTNE)
(2019) Schrack-Belschner, Sonja Miriam Irmgard; Schwack, Wolfgang
Cosmetic products are important consumer goods in the "non-food" sector, which should not have negative effects of the human health. Critical compounds, however, can be formed by the oxidation of an unsaturated organic compound.Thereby formed oxidation products with potentially adverse properties are well known from the food sector. As the oxidation of cosmetic ingredients, however, has less been studied, the oxidation of selected cosmetic ingredients with respect to the formation of potentially critical compounds was investigated within the framework of this thesis.The oxidation of cholesterol to various cholesterol oxidation products (COPs) was investigated in a first step.COPs are known from the food sector and are suspected of causing certain diseases such as arteriosclerosis.Cosmetic products have not yet been tested for COPs, although a versatile ingredient used only in cosmetic products, lanolin, contains above-average levels of the cholesterol, which is the precursor.Total COPs contents in cosmetics containing lanolin, namely lip care products, fat creams and ointments for nursing women were in the low percent range (up to 3 %) and were thus several orders of magnitudes higher than the contents found in food.The oxidation of fragrances was studied in the second part of this work.The subject is not new as the oxidation of terpenes to contact allergens has been studied in earlier studies. The oxidation of other fragrances was hardly investigated. In order to extend our knowledge in this field, the oxidation of a synthetic fragrance frequently used in perfumes, octahydro tetramethyl naphthalenyl ethanone (OTNE) was studied. Obtained results indicated that peroxides of OTNE were formed during oxidation.It was found out that the OTNE oxidation even occurs, when perfumes are stored indoors under normal temperature and light conditions. An in-vivo test showed that OTNE oxidation can be expected on the skin after application of a perfume.
Investigations on (photo) reactions of cosmetic UV filters towards skin proteins
(2014) Stiefel, Constanze; Schwack, Wolfgang
Although UV filters are important, widespread used cosmetic ingredients, their reaction potential towards skin proteins has hardly been studied so far. Therefore, the aim of the present thesis was to investigate the reactivity of widespread UV filter substances towards skin proteins using increasingly complex protein and skin model systems and different analytical techniques. At first, the development of a rapid high-performance thin-layer chromatographic (HPTLC) screening method on an amino phase as protein model provided an easy and rapid way to estimate the reactivity of the common UV filters benzophenone-3 (BP-3), hydroxymethoxybenzoyl sulfonic acid (HMBS), butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BM-DBM), 3-benzylidene camphor (3 BC), 4 methylbenzylidene camphor (4 BMC), octocrylene (OCR), ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC), ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS), diethylhexyl butamido triazone (DEBT), ethylhexyl triazone (EHT), and octyldimethyl p-aminobenzoic acid (OD-PABA) towards amino groups under thermal and irradiation conditions. A direct comparison of the results of the screening with (photo) patch test data of the dermatological practice showed that especially those UV filters, which are known to be common triggers for (photo) allergic reactions, showed the highest tendency to bind to the amino phase. This indicates that the screening may be well suited to identify possible skin sensitizers as part of a multistage testing strategy. The observation that the reactivity of the different UV filters was influenced by both heat and UV irradiation was verified during the subsequent studies with butylamine and ethanolamine. The UV filters showed individual, time- and temperature-dependent reactivities towards the amines. Benzophenone imines, enamines, and amides were identified as typical reaction products by means of electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (ESI-MS), Fourier transform infrared (FTIR), and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopy. BP-3, HMBS, the dibenzoylmethanes, OCR, and EHS showed by far the highest reactivity what was in good correlation with the previous screening, indicating a different contact-allergic potential of the UV filters. In contrast, the esters EHMC and EHT showed a significantly lower reactivity, and for the UV filters 3 BC, 4-MBC, and OD-PABA no conversion was observable at all. The formation of the reaction products had partly big influence on the respective UV filter spectra. In the case of BP-3, HMBS, and EHS, the conversions led to a strong bathochromic shift and hence to approved UVA protection. In contrary, in the case of DBM and BM-DBM and especially OCR, a breakage of the original molecule structures was observed, resulting in a significant decrease of the respective absorption strength. The same reaction tendencies could also be observed, when using Boc-protected lysine, the tetrapeptide Boc-Gly-Phe-Gly-Lys-OH (Boc-GFGK), and bovine serum albumin (BSA) as increasingly complex protein or skin models. OCR and BM-DBM confirmed to be most reactive towards the lysine side chains of the mentioned model systems, followed by DBM > BP 3 > EHS > EHMC > EHT in decreasing order. To determine the covalent binding of the UV filters to the protein BSA, beside the extraction of the unbound UV filters, the increase of the molar mass of the formed BSA-adducts was additionally exemplarily determined for EHMC and DBM by matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization time-of-flight mass spectrometry (MALDI-TOFMS). Both methods gave comparable results. Binding to BSA did not affect the UV absorption properties of BM-DBM, EHMC, and EHT, but led to a bathochromic shift in the cases of BP-3 and EHS. For OCR, a strong hypsochromic shift and a nearly complete loss of UVA+B protection was observable. To better reflect the usual application conditions, a thin gelatine layer was chosen as further skin model. The UV filter amounts applied were adapted according to the existing ISO norm for the determination of the SPF. Afterwards, UV irradiation was performed. The binding amounts were determined both by extraction of the unbound UV filters and by isotope-ratio mass spectrometry (IRMS), where two synthetized, stable-isotope labelled UV filter analogues (EHC-d5 and DBM-d5) were used. In contrast to the esters EHMC and EHT, which showed comparatively small binding amounts, for the UV filters OCR, BP-3, EHS, and BM-DBM significant reaction tendencies towards gelatin were observed. Finally, various commercial sunscreens and personal care products with UV protection were applied on either prepared porcine skin or glass plates, followed by UV irradiation. Significant differences were observed for the amounts of UV filters extracted from glass and skin. The lower recoveries in the case of the skin indicated an additional reaction of the UV filters towards the skin samples. BP-3 showed the highest discrepancy between the recoveries from glass and skin after irradiation, followed by EHS > BM DBM > OCR > EHMC > EHT in decreasing order. The present dissertation showed that cosmetic UV filters were able to react with amino structures of different proteins under thermal and irradiation conditions. As the formation of protein adducts is seen as key event in the development of (photo) allergic reactions, the results indicate a specific skin sensitization potential of the UV filters. This is confirmed by the experience of dermatological practice. Since such reactions have partly strong influence on the respective UV filter spectra, the existing in vitro methods using PMMA or quartz glass as substrates have to be questioned, since those methods cannot capture such skin-typical reactions.